The Global Rally organization appointed Destination Rally for the organization of their Friendship Rally 2018 through Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar and Laos. A non-competitive adventure rally through all kinds of terrain from rolling dirt roads and broken bridges in the Cardamom Mountains of Cambodia to the 20 lane highway of Naypidaw, Myanmar, the steep mountain roads of North Vietnam or the jungle roads of Laos.
It all begun on February 2nd in the quaint little town of Hoi An, about 20 km from Danang, in central Vietnam. Our participants came from various corners of the world: we had a Canadian couple driving a Ford Model A from 1931; a “ Molly” Porsche 356A from the UK; an XK 140 from 1957 and three XK 150; two Porsche 911s; a Rover P4 80 from Hong Kong; a beautifully modified red Austin-Healey from 1959; a Mercedes Pagoda from Luxembourg and another Mercedes 300 SE; a silver “James Bond” Aston Martin DB6, an MG BGT from Australia; a couple of Landcruisers and a Land Rover Discovery to help with spare parts. Our logistics team, including the Rally Director and the Emergency doctor, drove a Toyota Hilux equipped with medical supplies.
After a day of practice driving in the mountains surrounding Danang, the rally took off to the South and the cities of Kontum and Buon Ma Thuot, to further arrive in the hills of the French colonial town of Dalat. Passing through rice fields and mountain caves, the first days got us ready for the traffic around the city of Saigon and the millions of motorcycles coming from all sides… a great test of driving skills! Known for flower plantations all around the city, we celebrated Valentine’s night at the Dalat Palace with roses.
After our first free day on Ke Ga beach to allow some car checking, washing and laundry, we drove through the Mekong delta, hopping from one island to the other on ferries, which made it an interesting interaction with the locals. After a small cruise in the delta to visit the floating market, the cars were driven to the border town of Ha Tien. Only a few problems with the fuel pumps of the Rover and a few adjustments on another car slowed some arrivals.
Following the cross border briefing, we made a smooth passing of the border through Cambodia, driving through the pepper plantations and the city of Kep, famous for its blue crabs. A quick seafood lunch before ending at the entrance of the Cardamon mountains, in the village of Tatai. The afternoon was spent on getting the cars ready for some rough terrain. The Cardamons are known for their rough roads and broken bridges especially following the rainy season. We departed early to make sure we could make it through in about 12 hours of driving. Our local agent, Asia Rally Logistics, made sure the bridges, although difficult with broken planks and holes, would sustain the passing of the old cars. The crossing of the mountain meant that most cars were driving in small convoys, to help each other on the tough track if needed. The front and back protection on most cars proved to be essential, especially for the Austin-Healey and the Porsche 356. Bridges were especially tough as the margin of error proved to be very slim. The cars did suffer through some of the worst parts but the scenery was amazing. A surprise picnic lunch in the middle of nowhere made for a great break, especially the hammock allowing for a quick nap before hitting the road again. An adventure indeed, but a day to remember, all cars made it to Battambang for a well-deserved overnight. The next morning, all participants took advantage of the garage where the cars were parked to check the cars over and dust them off! We fixed a suspension piece on the Austin-Healey and did some welding as well.
After a short drive to Siem Reap, the site of the famous Angkor temples, participants got to experience fame with tourists coming to look at the cars parked at the Grand Hotel d’Angkor, a Raffles property. A private dinner with cultural dances in the middle of the Khmer temples of Angkor was the cherry on the cake. A memorable night.
Day 14, arriving in the town of Pre Vihear, we experienced a dangerous field fire where we had to evacuate the hotel and moved the cars out of the way of the advancing fire. Thrilling and scary at the same time. No harm to anyone, we left the next day for Thailand after a nice visit of the Khmer temple. All cars running, we drove beautiful winding roads through the Loei province all the way to Chiang Khan, on the Laos border and the banks of the Mekong River. Jungle on one side and the Mekong on the other, the Porsche especially enjoyed the turns on the twisting road.
On the way to the old capital, the Land Rover experienced some fuel problems and had to be towed away to Sukhothai for fixing. The next day we hit the road on a newly constructed highway all the way to the Burmese border city of Myawaddy and on to Hpa An, the limestone area of Southern Myanmar, on a really rough and tough road under renovation. Great ethnic dance welcome at the hotel.
Day 19 of the trip, took us on a long stretch of highway to the new capital of Naypidaw, the city with the 20 lane road…but completely empty of cars! The Austin-Healey was back in the shop with an oil leak that got fixed in one of the capital’s garages, before hitting the road and catching up with the rest of the cars.
From the capital we took the very scenic road to Bagan, through rubber plantations and oil fields, the Texas of Myanma. Again a few minor breakdowns on the road, with the Porsche 356 losing part of its brakes and one of the Jaguar XK140 losing fluids…but our mechanic got everything fixed.
Arrival in the scenic town of Bagan for a two-night, well deserved break. Free the next morning, most participants chose to fly in hot air balloons over the plain of 2,500 stupas and pagodas. An amazing sunrise gazing at the peaceful sights of the temples and the Irrawaddy River.
After leaving Bagan, the cars stopped at Mount Popa for breakfast with the stunning views of the monastery at the top of the hill. A drive through the central plain before reaching the Shan hills and a stop at an elephant camp for lunch. Some daring participants went on to wash elephants in the river. A climb on a really winding road to the colonial town of Kalaw took us to the top of the plateau at 1350 meters, before arriving at the beautiful Inle Lake and its floating gardens. Again, all cars enjoyed the route with the Porsche and the Aston Martin making it in record breaking time!
One of the most difficult roads was to come on the next two days. The Burmese government gave us special permission to take the Taungyi to Tachileik road, going to the border with Thailand. Not normally open to tourists, it proved once again that our cars were reliable in any terrain. From steep hills to road constructions and plenty of dust along the way, this road is one of the most scenic of the whole journey. Colorful ethnic tribes, the Silver Palaung, the Pao’s, the Akha’s, all on this single lane road dotted with potholes and dusty road works passages. Difficult, but exciting! On Day 26, we made our way to the border, back to civilization in Thailand for two days easy drive. Border crossing again was seamless and it seems that the custom and immigration agents spend more time taking picture of themselves with the cars than the actual paperwork needed to cross. On arrival in Nan, the red XK140 broke its gearbox stick in the middle of an intersection, making the last kilometers in second gear all the way to the hotel. After a quick look, we found a garage with welding capacity to put it back together for the next border crossing into the jungle country of Laos.
Arriving at the Laos border meant that drivers had to drive across alone, as co-pilots must walk across.
Our logistic team sorted out the picnic and the phone Sim cards for everyone before driving a very nice single lane road to the holy city of Luang Prabang and its golden monasteries. Situated on the banks of the Mekong River, this lovely city made a perfect setting for a one day rest stop before attacking the jungle roads to the Vietnamese border.
The Northern Laos roads are nice and winding through the thick forest around. You could drive for a few kilometer before hitting a patch of bad road where driving at walking pace was more than required. Alongside, we passed little villages of wooden houses and the local colorful costumes of the ethnic tribes.
After a last night in an Eco lodge planted on a small river with a real Zen atmosphere, we left Laos for the mountain roads of North Vietnam. Places with names that resonate in history like Dien Bien Phu, or Sapa, home of the highest peak in Vietnam and its steep and beautiful rice terraces, the excitement grew as we knew we would be the first vintage car rally to pass through the Northern route along the Chinese border all the way to Halong Bay.
Possibly the best route of the whole rally, the route from Sapa to the city of Ha Giang, was steep, with mountain drops on both sides of the single lane road. Travelling at low speed, we drove through quaint villages, stopping to interact with the kids, looking at the ladies weaving, taking photos of the rice terraces, just a feast for the eyes and a day to remember. Yes, the road was very difficult and really not made for people who are afraid of heights, but just an amazing road. If the hotel standards are very low, the scenery makes up for it!
Only the Mercedes 300 SE experienced some brake problems on the way downhill, with overheating. Thanks to Alan and his Porsche 911T who attached the towing cable to the back of the Mercedes to slow the car down when the brakes completely failed. After cooling, it slowly made its way to the hotel for a complete purge and new brake fluid.
The last two days were much easier as we made our way down from the mountain all the way to Halong Bay. Only stopping to eat fresh pineapples or lychees from the plantations alongside of the road.
On day 37, we arrived in Halong Bay after 8,900 Km of fantastic roads. Proudly saying that all cars made it, thanks to good preparation of the cars and certainly the talent of each of the drivers and our South African mechanic, Paul.
After a last check of all the cars, dusting off some and detailed cleaning for the Australian and the Canadian vehicle (due to specific country regulation), we set off for the last drive to the biggest commercial harbor in Vietnam, the port of Haiphong. Mission accomplished! ..No accidents or injuries reported!
A real adventure rally with every possible terrain to experience but with the scenic views and the smile of the local people.
